At first sight, Paris is very much as I imagined. In my mind I only had snapshots though; I had not contemplated scale or intensity. Both were nearly overwhelming. Tall, old, beautiful buildings, yes. Tens of thousands of them? Everywhere? Didn’t expect that. Baguettes are popular, right? A baguette in every shopping bag? Never would have guessed. The city of love, I know. But couples making out at every opportunity, seemingly all the time? It was worse than South America. Although, it didn’t seem especially romantic, or any more so than anywhere else beautiful. Not to be down on it, but I guess I was surprised to be totally comfortable, even by myself.
I arrived from St Gallen a little before 10. My roommate suggested the Eiffel tower at night, which seemed perfect to me. I got subway instructions from the front desk and nearly ran there. He had said that I would see it when I got out of the subway, but there were half a dozen exits and once back on street level, no sign of it. I’ll warn you the video is a little jarring, I was holding the camera in my hand by my side so you couldn’t tell I was filming. But you can see that with a little wandering, I definitely found it.
The next morning I just set out wandering. I stopped at a café that had internet and had this smoked salmon tartine (salmon, cheese, pickles on toasted thick brown bread).
I wasn't really on any kind of schedule and was just wandering, so after I finished eating I decided I would get up once I saw somebody with a baguette. That seemed likely based on stereotypes but I figured it would give me ten minutes or so to relax. This is what I saw (and captured on film) in the 2 or 3 minutes following:
The street signs are very small and actually on the corner buildings, so they are hard to see. There are lots of place signs though – directing you towards Notre Dame, Arc de Triumph, etc. I followed one such sign to Butte Montremar and stumbled upon this:
Um, wow. It started to sprinkle when I walked up to it, so I waited it out under this:
Once the sun came out again, a few minutes later, and walked around the building. I was again, like with the Eiffel tower, blown away.
I continued to wander around the city, but with diminishing returns. It actually gets a little tiring being surrounded by such awesome examples of human achievement all the time. By the time I got to Notre Dame, I was less than impressed. Partially because I was practically drowning in a sea of tourists and given the (gorgeous) 85 degree weather, very thirsty for a Fanta (which I couldn’t find anywhere).
I finally found an iced green tea in a Chinese shop, which helped. I sat down in the gardens outside the Louvre to relax a moment. The spot I sat in
was pretty cool, but the rest of the garden paled in comparison to how amazing the architecure is. I guess you can’t focus on everything. As I admired the fat statue, a somewhat weird guy came up to me. I instinctively pretended I didn’t speak English, only Spanish, so there was no way for us to communicate. I did, of course, understand what he said, and it went like this: I am a student, I would like to practice my English with you for a moment. (I shake my head no.) I am a student, a student of massage (as he reaches for my flip-flopped foot) and you have the most beautiful feet. (I pull away my foot, No! Ciao!) Why? (I just give him a dirty look.) He sulks away.
I went back to the hostel and took a little nap. When I got up one of my roommates was there and we lamented the lack of social life and very young crowd (I’m talking almost entirely under 21) in the hostel. We decided to get some beer and hang out in the lobby to see if we could find a crew to go to dinner. We ended up gathering quite a crowd and making trips to the corner store for food and more beer. It was the usual hostel fare: Australians, Americans (Canada & US), Brazilians & British (these were actually Irish in this case). One of the Australians looked like Russel Brand and there was a rogue German guy who looked like Robert Pattenson. As I mentioned before, except for me and the Irish guys, everyone was around 20 or younger. It was strange - in South America, the travelers were much older. Anyways it was really fun until one of the American girls (from Washington, DC) got too drunk and started preaching about gender inequality…at which point it got kind of awkward and I went to bed.
I moved to a different hostel the next day, a little farther east. It was run by an American lady and had free wifi, yaaay. I got caught up on work and phone calls and cooked some couscous with a tomato chickpea sauce. I went to be early and planned to have a quick meeting on skype in the morning followed by meeting Kelly, a UCSD Cognitive Science friend, at the train station around noon.
Don’t worry, there are still lovebirds and baguettes throughout this story. I wanted to do a serious of pictures of them, and given the obvious downsides to photographing people making out, I chose baguettes. They were really everywhere except the very touristy places, but didn't spend enough time alone just sitting to get any others than those above. Guess that means another trip to Paris someday...
So, Kelly has a friend visiting Paris who has a friend from CouchSurfing who lives here, so I knew once I found Kelly I would not have to stay in any more hostels. This was good because it is busy season and I didn’t make any reservations (which is why I had to move hostels). I was standing next to a girl waiting for the same train as I was, she seemed like she might have been Kelly’s friend, and she even waited for all the people, like I did, since Kelly never got off the train. I thought about talking to her but decided against it since high likelihood of language difficulties if it wasn’t her. I wandered around the station trying to find change (the metro tickets can only be bought with coins) and finally found a cheap place to buy a candy bar. Lo and behold, Kelly is there doing the same thing. Woohoo.
We took the metro to the apartment where Kelly’s friend, Elaina, was staying with her friend, Thomas. Of course, Elaina was the girl standing next to me but either way, somehow we all found each other. Thomas had cooked us a zucchini and tomato casserole thingy and we ate it with Canadian bacon, baguettes and goat cheese. I finally understood why people have the baguette: so they can eat cheese. It all makes sense…delicious, delicious sense. For dinner we went to the store and bought more cheese and some wine and then we took off for a little dancing.
I was expecting a club or something, but we walked up to a park with large circular cut outs on a canal edge. It was a full moon and every area had a different crowd of dancers surrounded by spectators and musicians. The first we came upon was salsa, the next capoeira, the next tango. It was gorgeous and really what I would have thought one could find in Paris. That was romantic. Not couples making out in subway corners, anyone can do that. But crowds of people dancing under the full moon by a river on a random Tuesday? Oui.
